Bright days, dark cabbage

Cavolo nero is my new thing. It seems strange to see this dark, wintry vegetable under such bright, cloudless skies at my local farmers market. It's brooding beauty juts from boxes of fresh-bought produce and jostles for space in my boot alongside a body board and various towels and bathers - our ever-ready kit for impromptu swims. Yet this is August, it is as cold as it's going to get all year - and I'm in sandals!

Of course, the locals are still in their ankle boots and natty ponchos - holding on to a sartorial moment they so rarely get to flaunt. But for me, after 7 years of thermals and tights and bloody khaki parkas - I am taking that 22 degrees and running with it all the way to the beach.

At the stove however, I am happy to concede to winter. Cavolo nero has such integrity; it's colour - an almost black green - implies everything you need to know about it. It is intense, full of health and not to be messed with. Do not trust a recipe that throws it in at the last minute, cuts it up and adds it raw to eggy baked dishes like frittata for example, or does anything other than cook it slow and long. Slow and Long.

Ribbolita for example cooks it down for over 2 hours. I know it seems contrary to how we cook these days - all quick, easy, flash, 15 minute meals etc - and yes, the cabbage turns very soft and blackens and wilts and looks like you've killed it. But what you've really done is got the nutrients out and swirling around your bowl, and mellowed and massaged to the flavour from a bitter medicinal zing to something round and soothing and earthy.

The cavolo nero recipe I've played on repeat lately - braised with ricotta and pasta - has come from a blog I love - rachel eats. It is light enough for this glorious weather, yet deeply satisfying and has so much flavour from so few ingredients - this is Italian alchemy at it's finest.

Spaghetti with braised cavolo nero and ricotta (from Rachel Eats)
serves 2

1 bunch of cavolo nero, washed, leaves stripped from ribs and cut into ribbons
3 tbsp olive oil
small knob of butter
2 large cloves garlic, peeled and squashed with the back of a knife
1/2 small dry chilli, crumbled
150g fresh ricotta, crumbled
300g dry spaghetti
lots of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (or Grano Padano)

method

Warm the oil, butter and garlic in a heavy based frypan, add the cavolo nero and chilli with a pinch of sea salt and cook on a low heat uncovered for about 10 minutes.

Add a cup of water, partially cover the pan and cook for another half hour until the cavolo nero is very soft and tender.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well salted water up to a rapid boil and add the spaghetti.

Cook the pasta until al-dente. When the pasta is nearly done, add the ricotta and and a ladle of the starchy pasta water to the cavolo nero mix, stir to combine. The sauce should now be loose and creamy.

Drain the pasta, add the the cavolo nero and ricotta and toss. Add lots of grated Parmigiano and serve immediately.